today we’re creating – dare i say it – what might be one of my favorite creations yet….
a gel-to-milk cleanser!
this DIY may sound like it would be quite involved, but i assure you it’s not super difficult. it requires a little more work than a standard face oil blend DIY, but it’s not nearly as much work as a lotion.
i have been obsessed with gel-to-milk cleansers, because they’re so gentle and customizable. the emulsifier does all the heavy lifting, so there’s no worries about soap disrupting your pH or acid mantle. the most sensitive skin can benefit from this gentle cleanser.
the cleansing putty was born on accident and works sort of on the same premise as this, but… this is kind of cooler, in my opinion. i think it rinses better and you don’t need an immersion blender for this DIY, as you do with the putty. you can use a frother! my rule of thumb is: anyhydrous and hydrous blends can use a frother, but oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions need a high power immersion blender.
please note, as always, there are No affiliate links in this post. i’ve only provided links to try and help you.
HOW IT WORKS
we’re letting a pre-blended, vegetable- & sugar beet-derived emulsifier do all the heavy lifting for us in this cleanser. because this is emulsifier-based, when you use it with water, it turns milky and rinses completely clean. how cool is that?
the emulsifier we’re using is called Sucrablend SP V2, aka “sucrose stearate (and) sucrose palmitate”… originally i only wanted to use sucrose stearate, but i can’t find a US source anywhere. let me know if you do, please. here is the manufacturer formulation guide for sucrablend sp v2.
this formula is anhydrous, which means you don’t need a preservative. that being said, if you’re not going to store this in some sort of pump bottle and/or it will have a high risk of water contamination, you need to add an oil-soluble preservative. i’m fond of elderberry fruit extract.
let’s get to it!
- small pot/sauce pan
- one 150 mL beaker
- one 60 mL beaker
- food thermometer
- carrier oil/s of your choice
- sucrablend sp v2
GEL-TO-MILK CLEANSER FORMULA
- 55% glycerin
- 43% oil
- 2% sucrablend sp v2
my intended formula:
- 55 ml glycerin* (this one derived from soy or this one derived from flax seeds)
- 43 ml black cumin seed oil
- 2g sucrablend sp v2
the glycerin is $8.25 for 8 ounces from mountain rose herbs, and the sucrablend is $15 for 50 grams. you can make 4 batches with that amount of glycerin, and 25 batches with that amount of sucrablend.
*the glycerin is NOT derived from palm oil.
what i ended up using because i had soon-to-be-expiring oils:
- 55 ml glycerin
- 20 ml schisandra fruit co2
- 10 ml amaranth seed oil
- 5 ml prickly pear seed oil
- 5 ml black cumin seed co2
- 3 ml blue tansy EO
- 2g sucrablend sp v2
i would typically never use or advise the use of such expensive oils in a wash-off product. i was planning on using plain black seed oil (4oz for about $16; not the CO2). however, i’d rather use them this way before they expire than not at all.
because this mix is HEATED UP, you don’t want to use heat-sensitive oils. yes, i gave you a poor example of a formula, because mine were heat-sensitive, but they were near their death date… anyway.
if you use heat sensitive oils, they can make up 10% of your formula, and you’d add it post-water bath. more below –
HOW TO MAKE
- in a small sauce pan, heat up some tap water, but not to boiling
- in the 150 mL beaker, add 55 ml glycerin and evenly sprinkle 2g sucrablend over it
- in the 60 mL beaker, add 43 ml of the carrier oil/s
- heat both up in the water bath to 167F/75C, monitoring closely with the thermometer
- the sucrablend will appear to “melt” into the glycerin
- remove both beakers from the water bath
- gently begin blending the glycerin/sucrablend mix with the frother as you slowly add your heated carrier oils
- blend until fully incorporated (will only take a couple seconds)
- if you’re using heat sensitive oils, when the mix reaches 104F/40C, add your remaining 10% oils and hand stir until fully incorporated
- let cool and transfer to your container of choice
HOW TO USE
use this gel-to-milk cleanser as you would your normal face cleanser. you’ll notice that it rinses clean with just water, taking your sweat, makeup, and grime with it. so cool!
best of all – your face will feel moisturized and not tight, and your skin’s pH will not be thrown off as it would be with a soap-based cleanser.
if you prefer to BUY vs DIY, cocokind recently launched an oil-to-milk cleanser, using sucrablend. you can find it here (not an affiliate or sponsored link).
if you’d like to tint your cleanser your favorite color, just make sure it’s oil-soluble. for example, i love the indigo hue of butterfly pea flowers, but it will not work because anthocyanins are water-soluble.
oil-soluble color additions:
- sea buckthorn berry oil for oranges (can stain light skin – use less than 1%)
- hemp seed oil for yellowy-greens
- blue essential oils for blues (blue tansy, german chamomile)
- gromwell root extract for reds/pinks
- isatis indigotica and/or indigofera tinctoria extract for indigos
try making a skin-softening but deep-cleaning BODY SHOWER GEL based on this formula. i’d advise opting for a cheaper carrier oil, like jojoba. there’d be no suds unless you added a bit of castile soap, but i’m not sure how that formula would pan out. if you experiment, please let us know!
what do you think??