welcome back to the DIY DUPE SERIES (pt 3). today we’re formulating a dupe that i haven’t come across yet, for a rather… ahem, pricey face oil that’s endorsed by celebrities… if you care about that?
as with all the other dupes, no companies will be named and the names of the product has been changed. i hope the name i gave it make you chuckle a bit. the full and original ingredients list is provided.
as always, NONE of the links provided are affiliates. i do not benefit in any way, i’m just trying to point you to reputable suppliers that i personally use if you want to try to DIY these.
there are some oils listed that i do not believe belong on your face, either due to comedogenic rating and/or high oleic acid content, but everyone’s skin is different. for that reason, the dupe will be listed as close to the original as possible and i will note which ones i do not prefer.
i’m gonna just say it…. the original is overhyped, not suitable for all skin types, and contains phototoxic ingredients. let’s dupe it and call it “moonshiner’s son”… GET IT? i’m hilarious.
grape seed oil, hazelnut seed oil, bergamot peel oil, avocado oil, marigold extract, rose absolute, carrot seed oil, evening primrose oil, rosehip seed oil, lemon peel, lavender flower, alfalfa leaf, nettle leaf, dandelion leaf, frankincense oil, neroli flower oil, rosemary leaf extract, sea buckthorn fruit oil, turmeric root oil, cypress leaf oil, jasmine flower, tamanu oil.
firstly, please check with your local herbalist if the herbs and essential oils used in this formula are appropriate for use by you. i will have my certification soon and can start helping, but until then, ask a locally certified herbalist, pretty please.
right off the bat i can tell you this oil blend is not suitable for blemish-prone skin, despite how it’s marketed. hazelnut and avocado are too high oleic acid.
i will also say that due to the whole plant material infusions, this dupe does not make sense to make unless you’re making about 10 ounces worth. gift idea?
as for ingredient listing, i suspect they don’t properly listing ingredients, as many indicate whole plant material is still in the final product. as that’s not the case, they do not list what the infusion medium is. i will assume grapeseed oil for this dupe.
as for formulation, the company discloses they do start with many whole plant materials, so let’s assume that’s true and all their extracts were oil-infused for 4 to 6 weeks. additionally, the herbalist rule of thumb is 1 ounce dried herbs per 10 ounces carrier oil, so making only 1 ounce will be tricky. we’ll use more than this though, to make it more potent… about 25% dried herbs and 75% carrier oil. the formulation will also be in %s, so that will help you scale.
another note on formulation – finding the “1% line” for recreating formulations was relatively easy, because bergamot EO is near the top. it’s phototoxic so we won’t be adding it, but it served its purpose for our dupe, so let’s be thankful for that reason. we also know that sea buckthorn fruit oil needs to be used at 1% or less because it can stain light skin. i have purchased and used the original formula, and based on the color i saw with my own two eyes, i’m guessing it’s used at less than 0.5%*, not 1%. *-i say less than 0.5% because it’s below all the EOs, where the total EOs would be 1% or less.
if we work backwards and assign our EOs 0.2% contributions to keep us under 1%, we have 97% of our formula left for the 3 carrier oils. rose absolute is extremely potent, and considering there are no real distinct rose notes in the final (real) product, the % contribution is likely very, very low.
lastly, because we’re infusing the grapeseed oil, we will assume at least 75% of the remaining 97% is grapeseed, and evenly split the other two.
eliminate phototoxic EOs. use jasmine flower extract, as just “jasmine flower” is listed, which is not correct because there is no remaining whole plant material in the product. use turmeric root CO2, as “turmeric root oil” does not exist. assume frankincense oil is a CO2. infuse plant materials in grapeseed oil.
pro tip – you can purchase sample sizes of many ingredients from eden botanicals… spending $2 or $3 when it’s all you need is much better than shelling out for the 5 or 30 mL sizes.
- infused grapeseed oil – 75%
- equal parts of – calendula, lavender, alfalfa leaf, nettle leaf, and dandelion leaf (dried herbs will account for ~25% TOTAL of the oil infusion, contributing ~5% each)
- infuse for 4 to 6 weeks in a cool, dry, dark place. solar infusion can oxidize and ruin the oil, although it is by far the preferred method by herbalists.
- hazelnut seed oil – 12%
- avocado oil – 10%
- rose absolute – 0.2%
- carrot seed EO – 0.2%
- evening primrose oil – 0.2%
- rosehip seed CO2 – 0.2%
- frankincense CO2– 0.2%
- neroli EO – 0.2%
- rosemary CO2 – 0.2%
- sea buckthorn fruit oil (not seed) – 0.2%
- turmeric root CO2 – 0.2%
- cypress EO – 0.2%
- jasmine flower extract – 0.2%
- tamanu oil – 0.2%
what do you think?