gel to milk cleanser

hi crunchies!

today we’re creating – dare i say it – what might be one of my favorite creations yet….

a gel-to-milk cleanser!

this DIY may sound like it would be quite involved, but i assure you it’s not super difficult. it requires a little more work than a standard face oil blend DIY, but it’s not nearly as much work as a lotion.

i have been obsessed with gel-to-milk cleansers, because they’re so gentle and customizable. the emulsifier does all the heavy lifting, so there’s no worries about soap disrupting your pH or acid mantle. the most sensitive skin can benefit from this gentle cleanser.

the cleansing putty was born on accident and works sort of on the same premise as this, but… this is kind of cooler, in my opinion. i think it rinses better and you don’t need an immersion blender for this DIY, as you do with the putty. you can use a frother! my rule of thumb is: anyhydrous and hydrous blends can use a frother, but oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions need a high power immersion blender.

please note, as always, there are No affiliate links in this post. i’ve only provided links to try and help you.

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HOW IT WORKS

we’re letting a pre-blended, vegetable- & sugar beet-derived emulsifier do all the heavy lifting for us in this cleanser. because this is emulsifier-based, when you use it with water, it turns milky and rinses completely clean. how cool is that?

the emulsifier we’re using is called Sucrablend SP V2, aka “sucrose stearate (and) sucrose palmitate”… originally i only wanted to use sucrose stearate, but i can’t find a US source anywhere. let me know if you do, please. here is the manufacturer formulation guide for sucrablend sp v2.

this formula is anhydrous, which means you don’t need a preservative. that being said, if you’re not going to store this in some sort of pump bottle and/or it will have a high risk of water contamination, you need to add an oil-soluble preservative. i’m fond of elderberry fruit extract.

let’s get to it!

NEEDED

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  • small pot/sauce pan
  • one 150 mL beaker
  • one 60 mL beaker
  • food thermometer
  • frother
  • glycerin
  • carrier oil/s of your choice
  • sucrablend sp v2

GEL-TO-MILK CLEANSER FORMULA

  • 55% glycerin
  • 43% oil
  • 2% sucrablend sp v2

my intended formula:

the glycerin is $8.25 for 8 ounces from mountain rose herbs, and the sucrablend is $15 for 50 grams. you can make 4 batches with that amount of glycerin, and 25 batches with that amount of sucrablend.

*the glycerin is NOT derived from palm oil.

what i ended up using because i had soon-to-be-expiring oils:

  • 55 ml glycerin
  • 20 ml schisandra fruit co2
  • 10 ml amaranth seed oil
  • 5 ml prickly pear seed oil
  • 5 ml black cumin seed co2
  • 3 ml blue tansy EO
  • 2g sucrablend sp v2

i would typically never use or advise the use of such expensive oils in a wash-off product. i was planning on using plain black seed oil (4oz for about $16; not the CO2). however, i’d rather use them this way before they expire than not at all.

because this mix is HEATED UP, you don’t want to use heat-sensitive oils. yes, i gave you a poor example of a formula, because mine were heat-sensitive, but they were near their death date… anyway.

if you use heat sensitive oils, they can make up 10% of your formula, and you’d add it post-water bath. more below –

HOW TO MAKE

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  • in a small sauce pan, heat up some tap water, but not to boiling
  • in the 150 mL beaker, add 55 ml glycerin and evenly sprinkle 2g sucrablend over it
  • in the 60 mL beaker, add 43 ml of the carrier oil/s
  • heat both up in the water bath to 167F/75C, monitoring closely with the thermometer
    • the sucrablend will appear to “melt” into the glycerin
  • remove both beakers from the water bath
  • gently begin blending the glycerin/sucrablend mix with the frother as you slowly add your heated carrier oils
    • blend until fully incorporated (will only take a couple seconds)
  • if you’re using heat sensitive oils, when the mix reaches 104F/40C, add your remaining 10% oils and hand stir until fully incorporated
  • let cool and transfer to your container of choice

HOW TO USE

use this gel-to-milk cleanser as you would your normal face cleanser. you’ll notice that it rinses clean with just water, taking your sweat, makeup, and grime with it. so cool!

best of all – your face will feel moisturized and not tight, and your skin’s pH will not be thrown off as it would be with a soap-based cleanser.

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if you prefer to BUY vs DIY, cocokind recently launched an oil-to-milk cleanser, using sucrablend. you can find it here (not an affiliate or sponsored link).

COLOR VARIANTS

if you’d like to tint your cleanser your favorite color, just make sure it’s oil-soluble. for example, i love the indigo hue of butterfly pea flowers, but it will not work because anthocyanins are water-soluble.

oil-soluble color additions:

  • sea buckthorn berry oil for oranges (can stain light skin – use less than 1%)
  • hemp seed oil for yellowy-greens
  • blue essential oils for blues (blue tansy, german chamomile)
  • gromwell root extract for reds/pinks
  • isatis indigotica and/or indigofera tinctoria extract for indigos

FEELING CREATIVE?

try making a skin-softening but deep-cleaning BODY SHOWER GEL based on this formula. i’d advise opting for a cheaper carrier oil, like jojoba. there’d be no suds unless you added a bit of castile soap, but i’m not sure how that formula would pan out. if you experiment, please let us know!

what do you think??

XO, ALEXRAYE

diy formulation educational series – cleansing balms

welcome back! today we’re formulating cleansing balms! cleansing balms are pretty neat. they’re like cleansing oils, but are more solid and contain both an emulsifier and a surfactant. that means they’re also different from micellar water, which can pull hydration OUT of your skin (and they aren’t the best cleansers, since you’re not washing the emulsifier containing the gunk off your face).

as always, NONE of the links provided are affiliates. i do not benefit in any way, i’m just trying to point you to reputable suppliers that i personally use if you want to try to DIY these.

there are some oils listed in the “inspiration formulas” that i do not believe belong on your face, either due to comedogenic rating and/or high oleic acid content, but everyone’s skin is different. for that reason, the formulations will be listed as close to the original as possible and i will note which ones i do not prefer. education is key, so do some research – it’s the second most fun part, other than blending 😉

please always check herb and essential oil use with your local herbalist and aromatherapist before use, no matter how ‘innocent’ they seem. for example, ylang-ylang EO is commonly used, but you should avoid it during pregnancy.

 

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here are 2 cleansing balms that you can DIY at home, while controlling what oils and butters are best for your skin.

disclaimer: you technically do not need a preservative in these since they’re anhydrous, but i highly suggest one because there’s a high risk of water contamination. i usually love using aspen bark extract, but since it’s water-soluble, let’s try using elderberry extract at a max 5% instead, as it’s oil-soluble.

remember one aspect of a cleansing balm is that it contains a surfactant, aka the dirt remover. the names of them can look “scary” but they realistically are not. they’re also typically used around a 1% to 6% contribution, so overall very low. if you choose to not add these, as some companies do, that’s totally fine, but they will not by definition be a “true” cleansing balm.

please note that castile soap is not an acceptable surfactant for your face skin.

1. BLOOD ORANGE BALM

ingredients:

organic avocado oil, organic coconut oil, organic olive leaf oil, organic olive oil, organic beeswax, blood orange essential oil, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate

notes:

we’re not putting the highly comedogenic coconut oil on our faces, so we’ll substitute with tucuma butter.  tucuma butter is a nice emollient high in lauric acid and low in oleic acid. it is a palm oil (astrocaryum vulgare), but not the palm oil you’re thinking of, which is elaeis guineensis. moving along – i had trouble understanding what they meant by olive ‘leaf’ oil, as there’s no such thing; you’d have to extract it IN oil. i don’t think they’re using olive leaf extracted in oil, as it’s an extremely potent herbal ‘medicine’ and should not be used liberally. beeswax is entirely too occlusive for a rinse-off product, so we’ll swap it out and use a higher concentration of butter. and see the polyglyceryl-3 palmitate? they use it as their surfactant. it’s typically used at 3 to 6%. for this formula we will opt for a better, in my opinion, surfactant called caprylyl/capryl glucoside. this is also a solubilizer (surfactant that’s a dispersing agent/stabilizer for oils in water). win. it’s vegetable-derived.

lastly, let’s use the rule of thumb that essential oils for topical use really should not exceed 0.5% to 2%, depending on which EO it is. citrus oils can be phototoxic, so take that into consideration, although this is a rinse-off product. i’m assuming they used it at 2% for fragrance since it’s on the label, even though it could be a potential irritant for some people.

adjustments:

no coconut oil. no beeswax. substitute butter. swap pg3p surfactant for c/c glucoside.

diy formula:

 

2. MELTY BALM

ingredients:

Astrocaryum murumuru butter, Helianthus annuus oil*, Camellia oleifera oil*, Passiflora incarnata oil*, Orbignya oleifera oil, Decyl glucoside, Cetearyl olivate + Sorbitan olivate, Mangifera indica butter*,Ricinus communis seed oil*, Theobromo grandiflorum butter, Annuus seed oil + Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Annuus seed oil + Victoria amazonica extract, Annuus seed oil + Rosa-sinensis, Annuus seed oil + Salix alba bark extracta, Nigella sativa oil, Benzyl Alcohol, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Citrus aurantium amara oil, Brassica napus oil Rosmarinus officinalis extract, Cananga odorata oil, Rosmarinus officinalis oil, Cinnamomum camphor linalol, Citrus.aurantium bergamia FCF oil

murumuru butter, sunflower seed oil, camellia seed oil, passionfruit seed oil, babassu oil, decyl glucoside, cetearyl olivate + sorbitan olivate, mango seed butter, castor oil, cupuacu butter, kakadu plum infused in sunflower seed oil, hibiscus-infused sunflower seed oil, white willow bark infused sunflower seed oil, black cumin oil, benzyl alcohol, geranium EO, neroli EO, rapeseed/canola oil, rosemary EO, ylang ylang EO, camphor EO, bergamot EO

notes:

i would sadly not use this on blemish-prone skin, due to the high oleic acid components of mango seed butter and cupuacu butter.

what is confusing to me is kakadu plum, hibiscus, and white willow bark all have water– and alcohol-soluble compounds. ex – the salicylic acid component of white willow bark is not oil-soluble. seeing there is no water or alcohol in this formula, i’m honestly not sure what good these “extracts” are doing being infused into sunflower seed oil. if anyone has more insight, please share, because i’m always down to learn more about herbalism!

decyl glucoside is a surfactant with an entirely too high pH, and i don’t see any pH adjusters listed in this formula. we’ll swap it out for the more suitable c/c glucoside. also, cetearyl olivate + sorbitan olivate is a product known as Olivem 1000, and is an emulsifier. in high viscous formulations, like this one, the manufacturer suggestion is a 7-8% use, but we can use it at 5% for a waterless balm. i see benzyl alcohol, which i believe they’re using as a preservative. let’s swap it out for a gentler, oil-soluble one – elderberry extract. lastly, this balm has an involved EO blend that may smell wonderful, but some are phototoxic, so we’ll adjust slightly.

adjustments:

swap the surfactant. swap the preservative. take out the rapeseed oil (why is this even in here?).

diy formula:

the original is beautiful melty and silky consistency, so let’s assume a more balanced ratio of 50% butter, 50% oils. you may need to play around with the formula to get the texture you prefer.

have these given you any ideas of one you want to make for yourself?

XO, ALEXRAYE