diy formulation educational series – body balm

welcome back! today we’re formulating a diy for a body balm!

as always, NONE of the links provided are affiliates. i do not benefit in any way, i’m just trying to point you to reputable suppliers that i personally use if you want to try to DIY these.

Image result for body balm

(pic from Crafts Unleased)

hopefully this body balm recipe inspires you to elevate your DIY recipes!

ingredients from inspiration product:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil*, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Garcinia Indica (Kokum) Seed Butter*, Cera Carnauba/Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax/Cire de Carnauba*, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter*, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter*, Cera Alba/Beeswax/Cire d’abeille*, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Seed Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil*, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Oil*, Phenethyl Alcohol, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil*, Arnica Montana (Arnica) Extract*, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Leaf Extract*, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract*, Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Extract*, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract*, Algae Extract, Tocopherol, Aroma**, Limonene, Linalool

notes:

this is an anhydrous blend made with a harder, crumbly butter (kokum), two different waxes, and an oil-soluble preservative. usually balms like this can have a nice texture with 25% butter, 50% oil, and 25% wax, although it varies due to personal preference and which butters, oils, and waxes you decide to use. if you’re just using hard and crumbly kokum butter, it’s more 50/50. some versions have 70% oil, 15% butter, and 5% wax. see how the butter and wax percentages can change it? since the kokum butter is pretty hard, we can do without the waxes, especially since beeswax can leave a slight film on the skin. let’s use it at 10%, and as a formulation guideline. cocoa butter is also a bit harder, next is shea, whereas cupuacu and mango seed butters are very soft and creamy. let’s do 65% butter and 35% oils; no waxes.

shea butter ethyl esters is a product known as Lipex SheaLight, designed to be a less greasy emollient. i think using a different butter and oils would have solved this issue, but this is another way to get that result.

dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is an anti-wrinkle product known as Sepilift DPHP. manufacturer tests indicate a formulation usage of 1%. we’ll exclude it. that means our acai oil is 1% contribution, as it’s next and before the phenethyl alcohol.

phenethyl alcohol is used here as a preservative and possibly an aromatic addition. it’s never been assessed for safety but animal studies show signs of skin irritation. we’ll leave it out, but note it’s usually used at no greater than 1%. the elderberry extract is a natural oil-soluble preservative and the EOs serve to make it smell nice.

elderberry extract can be used at 1 to 5%, although challenge test results indicate 2% is the acceptable usage.

i’m unsure of what algae extract they’re using, but we’ll choose a waterless one.

we know that tocopherols are effective at 0.5%, so let’s assume that.

as for the extracts towards the end of the list, they could be CO2 extractions. however, since there is no such thing as meadowsweet CO2 or alfalfa CO2, we can probably safely assume these plant materials are all being infused into the olive oil that’s listed. if that’s the case, then let’s blend equal parts of dried plant materials into the olive oil and let it infuse for 4 months. whew, long time.

lastly, here’s a labeling tidbit – cosmetic formulations that are sold to consumers in a retail way, like online or in-store, need the COMMON ingredient names, not the INCI names. this is a very common mistake. however, you can certainly include the INCI ones if they’re embedded in the common name. so, the labeling on this product is non-compliant.

adjustments:

no Lipex SheaLight. no waxes. no caprylic/capric triglyceride. no phenethyl alcohol. no Sepilift DPHP.

diy formula:

 

are you liking this DIY DUPE SERIES? please let me know!

XO, ALEXRAYE

 

cold weather body & hair butter DIY

before i start this post, i will say please do not put this on your face. it has a high comedogenic rating, but it’s great post-shower during cold months when your skin needs help staying moisturized.

here is a body butter that is purchase-worthy, but easy enough to make in your own home. it’s a true THICK whipped butter product.

this body butter works best if applied on damp skin from shoulders to toes, like after a shower. PS – it also dupes as a bomb hair butter, so you can also run the tiniest, tiniest bit through the ends of your hair, if it needs some cold weather repair.

body butters, depending on the types of butters and oils use, range in ratios from 70% butters/30% oils to 50/50.

as with any of my recipes, you can use your favorite carrier oils in place of the 2 carrier oils that i’ve chosen. if you also choose to substitute the butters, i can’t promise consistency or recipe ratios. please share your versions if you do!

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pic: VegaVert / RECIPE MINE

mango butter

  • deeply moisturizng emollient
  • antioxidant and revitalizing, leaving a glow
  • rich in omega-9 and vitamins C and A

cupuacu butter

  • soft and nourishing emollient
  • high water absorption capacity, protecting skin from moisture loss and restoring skin elasticity
  • rich in phytosterols, making it anti-inflammatory
  • rich in fatty acids omega-3 and -6, and vitamins C and A

marula oil

  • healing and moisturizing, improving the overall look and feel of your skin
  • absorbs instantly; completely non-greasy, “dry” oil
  • rich in omega-6 and -9

hemp seed oil

  • deeply healing and moisturizing
  • absorbs quickly
  • suitable for sensitive skin
  • contains omega-3/6/9

 

HOW TO:

this recipe makes 6 ounces.

  • 2 ounces mango butter
  • 1 ounce cupuacu butter
  • 2 ounces marula oil
  • 1 ounce hemp seed oil

in a double boiler, slightly heat the two butters until liquid. remove from heat. add marula and hempseed oils and stir with a spoon, and then allow the oils to cool. once closer to room temperature, blend with a hand mixer until whipped and smooth. if you want to add essential oils, now is the time. try starting with 6 to 8 drops, increasing little by little if you need to. the end result will look like a thick body butter lotion-type product.

store in an airtight jar, away from direct light and heat.

use sparingly after a shower on damp skin and hair, making sure to avoid the face and neck area.

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WHERE TO BUY

here are some links to help you source the ingredients. none are affiliates. i gain nothing; the links are only provided to help guide you.

it’s more cost-effective to buy double what’s needed, but the links provided are for 1 body butter mix (except for the hemp, because 4 ounces is the smallest they carry).

  • mango butter – 2 ounces for $8
  • cupuacu butter – 1 ounce for $4
  • marula oil – 2 ounces for $11
  • hemp seed oil – 4 ounces for $11
  • 200 mL sturdy glass containers – 1 for $19; this has a really wide opening, best for scooping out of; can be reused many times
    • if you get the 3 pack for $39, you get a free 15 mL screw top jar, perfect for traveling or another DIY. this is just on their website banner in plain sight – it has literally nothing to do with me nor do i benefit from your purchase.
    • here’s a 100 mL option. it’s technically 3.38 ounces, but i won’t tell you to just put a blank sticker label on it saying 3.28 ounces and take it through airport security… because that would be wrong… and i’ve definitely never done that…

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COST ANALYSIS

  • 1st 6 ounce finished product – $41
  • after 1st 6 ounce finished product, when the cost of the jar is no longer allocated – $22

if you want to purchase a body butter, 100% Pure sells some ‘okay’ ones in 3.4 ounce containers (half the size of your DIY) for $26.

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looks pretty good to me from all sides! what do you think?

do you have any favorite butter d.i.y’s or ‘buys’? please share with our community!

XO, ALEXRAYE