herb

4 things on my blog i no longer agree with

… and no, non-vegan items are not included 😉

i’ve decided to publish this because, hey, no one is perfect. if we’re not learning from our mistakes, we’re doing something wrong. we should always strive for improvement.

let’s get straight into it.

baking soda hair wash
- the pH of baking soda is much too harsh (too alkaline) and can cause damage to both hair and scalp over a sustained time period. i no longer advise this version of the no-poo method, but am still a fan of water-only washing and low-poos. calia is a nice shampoo & conditioner brand that’s affordable and has great ingredients.
diy sunscreen
- please do not try to make your own sunscreen. you have no idea if you’re properly protecting your skin. to have that tested and confirmed requires a formal panel, testing, and thousands of dollars. if you need suggestions – i like Badger Balm sunscreens for my body and Josh Rosebrook’s Daily Nutrient Cream for my face. please leave others below in the comments!
- i’m a supporter of responsible sun exposure. i think it’s crucial to health. that doesn’t mean i’m a supporter of reckless sun exposure. for example, i know i will be outside an average of 30 minutes total every day, and not midday. knowing that, i do not apply sunscreen to my body. however, if i know i will be on a midday hike, i will slather it on.
diy lotion w/ no preservatives
- say it with me – anything containing aqueous ingredients, or anhydrous coming into contact with water, NEEDS a preservative. i get on my soapbox about it here.
- two things to know: 1. preservatives are not evil. 2. antioxidants are not preservatives. rosemary eo and/or extract and vitamin e are antioxidants and can be used in anhydrous formulations, but they are not preservatives.
mixing EOs and herbs haphazardously
- as wonderful and easy as it sounds, you can’t just blend random essential oils and/or herbs together. everything has different constituents with varied herbal and drug interactions, in addition to varied contraindications. yes, plant extracts can and will absolutely interfere with prescribed medications. please always talk with both your doctor and your local certified herbalist.
- other than endangering yourself, loved ones, and even pets (no EOs with pets!), at the very least, you could be – 1. wasting plant material from not understanding constituent solubility properly (ex: trying to drink nettle tea for silica… won’t happen, babycakes. check out my post on this here); 2. wasting plant material from using herbs and essential oils with opposing ‘actions’ in the body (blending chamomile and green tea).

is there anything you no longer practice or agree with in the ‘crunchy’ or ‘green’ world? let’s hear it!

XO, ALEXRAYE

introduction to herbalism: oil infusions

whew, it’s been a couple weeks! hello, crunchies!

welcome back to our little “introduction to herbalism” series! today we’re going to go over OIL INFUSIONS.

and here’s your friendly reminder to ALWAYS check contraindications and drug interactions when using herbs…. always. yes, they’re plants… but no, they’re not all safe all the time. 🙂

what is an oil infusion?

an oil infusion is an infusion of herbs where the carrier oil(s) are the menstrum.

why use oil as the menstrum?

if we want to extract essential oil components, fat-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, fatty acids, tocopherols, and/or lipids, a carrier oil is our best option. knowing constituent solubility is crucial. see here if you missed our overview on that.

for example, the wound healing and skin moisturizing properties of comfrey leaf is found in allantoin, and the anti-inflammatory properties of black cumin seed oil comes from thymoquinone. both are oil-soluble only. pretty neat!

TYPES OF OIL INFUSIONS

folk method / simpler’s method / solar infusion

solar infusions are just what they sound like – an oil infusion left to sit in the sun. some herbalists will say solar infusions need to only sit for 2 weeks, and some say up to 6. i personally think it depends on your carrier oil and the herbs used.

while this is the more widely-used method, i personally think it’s a tiny bit less ideal because many carrier oils go rancid in sunlight. it’s just science. the rate of how quickly they go rancid varies tremendously, but can easily be researched. try starting with looking up studies on their OSI, or oxidative stress index.

for example, argan oil should probably never be used because it’s not very shelf-stable. when kept in ideal, dark, dry conditions, argan oil rapidly loses quality after 6 months, whereas marula oil is incredibly resistant to oxidative stress and will be fine for a solar infusion.

warm bath / crockpot (not ideal but possible)

if you’re short on time and don’t need a potent infused oil, the warm bath or crockpot method is suitable.

it’s not ideal because you’re heating up the oil and herbs to a level that can potentially destroy the beneficial constituents. you’ll want to make sure you’re not using a heat sensitive oil. for example, i wouldn’t suggest you use olive oil for the crockpot method, which can begin to show markers of thermal oxidation past 22C/71F, and 33C/98F can ruin the oil completely (depending on the region the olive oil is from… so interesting!).

cold infusion

i’ve found this to be the best infusion method for me, because you don’t have to worry about oxidative stability and rancidity.

with this method you follow a solar infusion, but rather than leaving it in the sun, you leave it in a cool, dry, dark area for 6 weeks. voila.

HOW TO

the ratios you’ll learn will vary. some herbalists advise 1 part DRIED herb to 10 parts carrier oil. some herbalists say to fill your container up halfway with herbs and the rest with oil, leaving 1 to 2 inches of oil on top so the herbs have room to swell. no matter which you opt for (depending on what herbs you’re using), you want to make sure the herb is completely dried out so you don’t grow mold in the oil.

once your oil is infused using the method of your choice, strain, bottle in dark glass, and label your infused oil (date and contents).

how long it keeps will be up to how well you store it and what types of carrier oils you used. always store infusions away from direct sunlight, out of heat, and in a dry area.

if anything smells off or becomes murky, toss it.

APPLICATIONS

you can use herbal infused oils as they are, or incorporate them into body butters, salves, hair treatments, face serums… let your creativity run wild! they’re a great way to really amp up the benefits of what you’re already DIYing.

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herbal infused oils are some of my favorite things to make! what about you? have you made any, or will you now try? can’t wait to hear!

XO, ALEXRAYE

disclaimer – these statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. anything presented here or on this site is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. i am not a medical doctor. i will not advise on herbal remedies for ailments nor will i advise on herbal safety. your choices are your own.

introduction to herbalism: teas & decoctions

welcome back to our little “introduction to herbalism” series! today we’re going to go over TEAS & DECOCTIONS.

i tried using instagram stories for the first time ever to take a poll, and 98% of you said you liked this series, so here we are again! 🙂 find me @alexraye_ae if you want to hang out online from time to time.

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what are teas and decoctions?

teas and decoctions are forms of extracting the beneficial, water-soluble components of plant material. knowing your herbs are important, but equally as important is knowing how to extract certain constituents.

when using water, we should only expect to extract the following constituents: tannins, saponins, lectins, terpenoids, mucilages, polypeptides, and polyphenols. we would not expect to extract minerals or fat-soluble vitamins.

how do i know which plant material constituents are water-soluble and which aren’t?

oops – you missed our last post in this herbalism series! here’s a summary:

oil
- essential oil components, fat-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, fatty acids, tocopherols, lipids
- ex: wound healing and skin moisturizing properties of comfrey leaf (allantoin); anti-inflammatory properties in black cumin seed oil (thymoquinone)
water
- tannins, saponins, lectins, terpenoids, mucilages, polypeptides, polyphenols
- ex: astringent property of witch hazel (tannins); antioxidant properties of butterfly pea flowers (anthocyanins – flavonoid)
vinegar
- minerals and trace elements
- not as potent as using an alcohol solvent, but suitable and extracts different constituents
- ex: silica from horsetail; minerals in nettle
alcohol
- carotenoids, tannins, terpenoids, sterols, alkaloids, polyphenols (like flavonoids)
- ex: antioxidant properties of clove (eugenol)
glycerin
- alcohol alternative, but unlike alcohol, it also extracts saponins
- ex: oxidative stress scavenging properties of astragalus (saponins)

TEA:

a tea is a type of infusion. it uses water as the menstrum to extract constituents from softer plant parts, like petals and leaves, where the plant material is strained before use or ingestion. the exception to this rule is aromatic roots, which are better prepared as a tea. an example of an aromatic root is ginger root.

they are considered to be of less medicinal value compared to decoctions.

how do i make a tea?

it depends on the plant material. the temperature of the water is also crucial. this will require some research on your end, depending on what you’re using. overall, though, you would heat up the water first, remove it from the heat, steep the plant material in it, and then strain before use/ingestion.

teas should be refrigerated and used within 48 hours.

here are a couple examples:

peppermint tea
- water temperature: ~170 degrees F
- steep time: 1 to 3 minutes
chamomile tea
- water temperature: ~200 degrees F
- steep time: 3 to 5 minutes

DECOCTION:

a decoction is technically another aqueous infusion, but the key here is the concentration. it’s a concentrated preparation of plant material made by simmering and then steeping the more tenuous plant parts, like roots, stems, seed, and barks.

they are considered the more therapeutic of the two.

how do i make a decoction?

unlike teas, decoctions start with the plant material already in the cold water. it’s simmered until the water has been reduced by half, removed from the heat and left to steep until it’s room temperature, and then strained before use and/or ingestion.

decoctions should be refrigerated and used within 48 hours.

some examples of a decoction are:

valerian root – promotes sound sleep
dandelion root – aids digestion

can i combine teas and decoctions?

yes, absolutely! once the decoction is made and removed from the heat, you can add the other plant materials better used in a tea, letting everything steep together as it cools.

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what do you think of this series so far? was this post helpful?

XO, ALEXRAYE

introduction to herbalism: extracts

let’s learn all about EXTRACTS.

what is an extract? what are the types of extracts? why use certain menstrums and not others?

wait, what’s a menstrum?

what is a plant/herbal extract?

an extract is a substance that contains the beneficial constituents of the original plant material. what constituents are extracted entirely depends on the menstrum used.

>> everything discussed in this post will not technically be a true-to-definition ‘extract,’ but they are all in the same realm and will come up when you’re having to choose for DIYs.

what is a menstrum?

simply put, a menstrum is a solvent. working with herbs, you will typically choose from water, alcohol, vinegar, glycerin, and/or a carrier oil.

you want your end ‘product’ to contain the constituents you intended. for that, you need to understand plant constituent solubility. not everything can be infused in oil!

constituent solubility

this is the underpinning to creating an effective extract!

knowing which constituents are what is absolutely necessary to avoid wasting precious plant material and/or creating misleading marketing hype.

this knowledge will keep you from fruitlessly trying to extract the tannins from white peony root in oil and drinking horsetail tea for the silica content (neither of which will ever work).

learning different constituents takes time and lots of research. i for one definitely do not know them all by heart. does anyone, though? maybe David Hoffman 😉

here’s a rough guide on how to choose which menstrum would be best for your intended end result:

oil
- essential oil components, fat-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, fatty acids, tocopherols, lipids
- ex: wound healing and skin moisturizing properties of comfrey leaf (allantoin); anti-inflammatory properties in black cumin seed oil (thymoquinone)
water
- tannins, saponins, lectins, terpenoids, mucilages, polypeptides, polyphenols
- ex: astringent property of witch hazel (tannins); antioxidant properties of butterfly pea flowers (anthocyanins – flavonoid)
vinegar
- minerals and trace elements
- not as potent as using an alcohol solvent, but suitable and extracts different constituents
- ex: silica from horsetail; minerals in nettle
alcohol
- carotenoids, tannins, terpenoids, sterols, alkaloids, polyphenols (like flavonoids)
- ex: antioxidant properties of clove (eugenol)
glycerin
- alcohol alternative, but unlike alcohol, it also extracts saponins
- ex: oxidative stress scavenging properties of astragalus (saponins)

don’t know which to use and can’t find any published research? reach out to a local certified herbalist. can’t reach one? find research and/or reading material from a trusted source, like David Hoffman or Rosemary Gladstar. this book has been my favorite so far for initial reading and learning (i have both the ebook and hardcover copies, if that says anything).

types of plant material extracts and methods

essential oil
- (please see my EO safety statements at the end of the blog post. to pique your interest in scrolling down – amongst other things, i included published Injury Reports and average documented injuries #s)
- highly concentrated distilled plant material containing volatile chemical compounds (not actually an ‘oil’)
- often used as aromatherapy
- used in extremely small concentrations (ie – 1%)
- ex: lavender, oregano, blue tansy, geranium
hydrosol, hydrolat, distillate
- aqueous by-product of distilling essential oils that was once thrown away by manufacturers as waste
- ‘low risk’ plant water (suitable for sensitive skin)
- ex: rose hydrosol, cucumber hydrosol
infusion
- can be oil- or water-based
- extracts from softer plant parts, like petals and leaves
- water-based infusions usually involve letting plant materials sit in hot water for a certain amount of time before straining (aka, tea)
- oil-based infusions require 4 to 6 weeks to be properly made but utilize the same softer plant parts (we’ll have a post on this)
- ex: water-based – peppermint tea, chamomile tea
- ex: oil-based – comfrey leaf oil (skin), rosemary oil (scalp)
decoction
- concentrated aqueous preparation of plant material made by boiling and then steeping (we’ll have a post on this, too)
- typically used with tenuous plant materials like roots, stems, seeds, and barks, where a normal tea preparation will not suffice
- not suitable for delicate petals and leaves
- ex: witch hazel; valerian ‘tea’ (because it’s made with the root and rhizome)
maceration
- used for soaking very delicate plant materials where the menstrum (oil/fat) is used cold
- also includes herb-infused honey
- ex: monoi de tahiti oil is a polynesian-decreed maceration of tahitian gardenias in unrefined coconut oil; it’s not a unique cold-pressed oil like hemp seed oil or olive oil
- ex: garlic honey
CO2
- supercritical oil extraction using carbon dioxide
- allows for higher terpene content
- contains both the carrier and essential oil constituents of the original plant material
- currently considered the cleanest extraction method for plant oils
- effective in smaller concentrations as compared to a cold-pressed carrier oil
- ex: chia seed CO2, black cumin seed CO2
CO2 total
- supercritical oil extraction using carbon dioxide
- creates an original “herb-like” extract that contains the oil, volatile essential oil constituents, waxes, and resins, all in one
- more paste-like than a CO2 extract
- effective in smaller concentrations as compared to a cold-pressed carrier oil
- ex: calendula CO2 total, raspberry seed CO2 total
absolute
- alcohol-extracted
- only used for perfumery
- ex: violet leaf absolute, rose absolute
tincture
- herbal medicine extract using alcohol as the menstrum
- ex: anxiety blends, digestive blends (here is a good source; not an affiliate)
glycerite
- herbal tincture using glycerin as the solvent/menstrum instead of alcohol
- can be taken internally as herbal medicine
  - better for kids and those avoiding alcohol
- ‘enhanced’ option for topical use formulations instead of plain glycerin
- ex: astragalus, echinacea (here is a good source; not an affiliate)
liniment
- rubbing alcohol extracted tincture
- for topical use only
- ex: arnica for bruising

whew – hopefully that wasn’t too much.

NEXT STEPS: not only should you be familiar with your constituent solubility, but you also have to know the best extraction method, based on what part of the plant you’re using, what constituents you want to utilize, and what menstrum you’re using. think: cold or hot; fast or slow. that will be our next post!

XO, ALEXRAYE

ESSENTIAL OIL SAFETY:

i could make a whole post about this… should i?

*always, always check contraindications and usage guidelines before use with a registered aromatherapist!*
not all are safe for use
none are water-soluble
- oil and water don’t mix. this applies to dropping EOs in your bathtub.
never apply to skin undiluted
- causes skin irritation and sensitivity, up to and including hives, swelling, inflammation, and burns
- caveat: the soles of the feet can be okay because the skin is so thick, but it’s still not advised unless under the supervision of a registered aromatherapist
can be dangerous when diffused
- 1. for extended periods of time, 2. around children, the elderly, and those who are sick, and 3. around pets (their livers cannot metabolize the constituents, cats especially)
- for example – wintergreen, peppermint, and eucalyptus are toxic to children and should not be diffused around them
- there are also some EOs that should never be diffused for any reason
never ingest
- “essential oils” are naturally found in raw plant materials, so when, for example, you put oregano on your pasta, you consume the oregano EO. but distilled essential oils are so highly concentrated and completely different from what you would ever encounter in nature.
- to be very clear – there is no such thing as a “food grade” EO. EOs do not belong under your tongue nor in your water bottles. this is often dangerously marketed by MLMs and bloggers. this can, and HAS, lead to mucous membrane irritation, migraines, ulcers, hives, seizures, organ failure, and hospitalization. let’s not forget that EOs also interact with pharmaceuticals!
- the only exception to this “never ingest” rule is if you are under the direct care and supervision of a REGISTERED aromatherapist, who has been through countless hours of formal study, clinicals, and passed a rigorous exam.
  - from Tisserand’s website (aka the most renowned and educated EO human we have today) – “Do not ingest essential oils unless advised to do so by a practitioner who is qualified/licensed to prescribe essential oils in this way. Taking essential oils orally engages many areas of risk that other modes do not. […] mucous membrane tissue is more sensitive than skin, yet our gut only sends out pain signals when erosion has progressed quite far. Essential oils are widely used in food flavorings, and GRAS status for many essential oils applies to food flavoring use, but it specifically excludes medicinal use.”
  - here is the Alliance of International Aromatherapists (AIA) statement, taken from their website – “AIA does not endorse internal therapeutic use (oral, vaginal or rectal) of essential oils unless recommended by a health care practitioner trained at an appropriate clinical level. An appropriate level of training must include chemistry, anatomy, diagnostics, physiology, formulation guidelines and safety issues regarding each specific internal route (oral, vaginal or rectal).”
please be cautious of MLMs
- they advise EO use in an unsafe and misleading manner, and employ untrained/unregistered distributors advising harmful methods of use (like undiluted application and ingestion). i don’t think the individual distributors do this out of malice by any means, they just haven’t been properly educated.
- they advertise their EOs are “therapeutic grade,” which doesn’t actually exist! it was completely made up and trademarked by the MLMs themselves. genius marketing, though.
please take the time to look at Injury Reports!
- here’s 2014, 2015a, 2015b, 2016, 2017, and 2018. they will show documented cases of EO injuries from being applied undiluted and from being ingested.
- look at the below chart to how much doterra deviates from average injury rates. WOW!